Mt. Lotse
Mt. Lotse
Mt. Lotse
Mt. Lotse
Mt. Lotse
Mt. Lotse
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Lhotse stands at 8516m, making it the fourth highest mountain in the world. It is situated at the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest, and the summits of the two mountains are connected by the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000m. Lhotse has three summits: Lhotse Main 8516m, Lhotse Shar 8383m and Lhotse Middle or East 8413m.

Sometimes mistakenly Lhotse has been identified as the south peak of the Everest massif. No serious attention was given to climbing Lhotse until Everest had finally been ascended. Lhotse first climbed in 1956 as an alternative route towards the summit of Everest.

Lhotse Main was first climbed in 1956 by Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger who were part of a Swiss expedition. Lhotse Shar was first climbed on December 5, 1979 by Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter by taking the SE-ridge. It was not until 2001 that Lhotse Middle was conquered by the Russian Expedition (See below for details).

The Lhotse Face/Route

The western flank of Lhotse is known as the Lhotse Face. Any climber bound for the South Col on Everest must climb this 1,125m (3,700ft) wall of glacial blue ice. This face rises at 40 and 50 degree pitches with the occasional 80 degree bulges. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face.

The south face is one of the most impressive walls in Himalayas. The first expedition from the south side was Yuogoslavian leading by A.Kunaver. They selected the left side of the wall but they manage to only get to 8100 meters. In 1985,1987 and 1989 three Polish expedition tried to climb the wall. The highest point they reach was 8300 meters. During the last expedition, Jerzy Kukuczka-the second person who climbed all 8000 meter peaks died during the attempt. Another expedition in 1989 lead by Reinhold Messner failed due to problems between members.

In 1990 Tomo Cesen said that he climbed the wall via Yugoslavian route. The climb caused much controversy because many climbers didn't believe that the wall, which was unclimbed by so many good climbers, was by climbed by single person. He later changed his mind claiming that he didn't reach the top but the summit ridge. However, public opinion is that he reached only about 7000 meters.

The south face was finally climbed in 1990 by Russian expedition few months after Cesen's climb. They describe the wall as impossible to be climbed by a single person.

When To Climb 

As for all the Himalayan peaks there are two main seasons. Pre-monsoon season runs from April through May. Post monsoon season runs from late September through October.

 

Itinerary

Days 01 : Arrival Kathmandu, transfer to Hotel

Days 02-03 : Prepared Expedition & Briefing in Ministry of Tourism

Days 04 : Fly to Lukla & trek to Phakding –camp or Lodge

Days 05 : Phakding – Namche – Camp or Lodge

Days 06 : Rest day Namche Bazaar Camp - Lodge

Days 07 : Namche - Thyangboche, Camp or lodge

Days 08 : Thyanboche - Pheriche, camp or Lodge

Days 09 : Pheriche - Lobuche, camp or Lodge

Days 10 : Lobuche -Base Camp, Preparation, camp

Days 11-36 : CLIMBING PERIOD OF MT. LHOTSE. 8516m.

Days 37 : Base Camp Preparation, camp or Lodge

Days 38 : Base camp – Pheriche Camp/Lodge

Days 39 : Periche - Khumjung, camp/Lodge

Days 40 : Khumjung – Phakding – Camp/Lodge

Days 41 : Base Camp Preparation, camp or Lodge

Days 42 : Phakding – Lukla – Camp/Lodge

Days 43-44 : Kathmandu - Hotel

Days 45 : Final departure

Facts

Type : Camping

Full board, enough trekking crew, tents

Duration : 45 Days

Trek Begin : by arrangement

Whats Included

  • 4 Nights hotel in Kathmandu with Bed & Breakfast at tourist standard Hotel.
  • Kathmandu Valley sightseeing with own mother tongue speaking guide and vehicle.
  • Permit fees of Respective Mountain and garbage Management Deposit. 
  • Government Liaison Officer fees and equipment (In sharing Basis) 
  • Camping Equipment: Trekking tents, Dining tent, Kitchen Tent, Shower(If Necessary).
  • Toilet Tent, Table and chairs, Base Camp Mattresses during the trekking. 
  • National Park fees of respective Areas 
  • Food: Food for trekking (Breakfast, lunch, dinner) 
  • Staff: 1 Guide, 1 Cook, 1 Kitchen & necessary porters. 
  • Local transportation Airport – Hotel – Airport.
  • Necessary land transportation for members and staffs.
  • Life insurance, medical Insurance  for Nepali staff.
  • Trekking daily  allowance, food allowance for trekking and camp staffs.
  • Fare well dinner with typical Nepali restaurant with folk song  & dance.
  • Office  service charge. 

Whats not Included

  • Personal equipment for Trekking & Climbing
  • Personal Insurance for travel to Nepal
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by Helicopter or means incase needed
  • Personal expenses
  • Tipping (Tips)
  • Bar bills & Beverage
  • Extra cost for bad whether or change flight with helicopter
  • Any other extra service 

Equipments

Down Suits (Dangri)- 1 Pcs

High Mountain (Summit) Shoes  -1 Pcs

Trekking Shoes- 1 Pcs 

Campon-1 Pcs 

High Mountain (Summit) Gloves (Mitten)- 1 Pairs

Normal Gloves – 2 Pairs

Summit Snow Goggles -1 Pcs 

Glacial Goggles -1 Pcs 

Ice Axe -1 Pcs 

Harness-1 Pcs 

Jumer -1 Pcs 

Carabinar (Luck & Unluck)- 3 Pcs

Slepping Bag(-40c)- 1 Pcs

Down Filled Mattress – 1 Pcs 

High Mountain (Summit) Socks – 2 Pairs  

Normal Trkekking Socks – 2 Pairs 

Ciimbing Bag ( Min 40 Ltrs)- 1 Pcs 

Helmet For Safety – 1 Pcs 

Down Jacktet-1pcs 

Down Trouser -1pcs 

8 Finger/Decender – 1pcs 

Head Lamp -  1 Pcs 

Gore-Tex Jacket & Trouser -1 Set 

Flecces Jacket & Trouser -1 Set 

Fleece Liner Gloves – 3 Pcs 

Wind Stopper – 1 Pcs 

Thermos Bottle – 1 Pcs 

Base Layer (Woolen ) -2 Set 

Water Bottle Normal 


Climbing Gears 

Ice Screw

Fix Rope 

Snow Bars 

Epi Gas 

Rock Pitton

Carainar 

High Tent-Ve-25 Size

Summit(Main) Rope 

High Cooking Pot

Snow Shovel 

Ice Hammer 

Member High Food 

Oxygen Cylinder 

Mask And Regulator 


Peak Equipment List 

Safety Harness

Jumer 

Helmet 

High Altimeter 

Ice Axe 

Crampons 

Ice Crew

Gaiters 

Carabiner( Locked & Unlucked)

Climb Ing Boots 

Pocket Knife 

Head Lamp 

Mattress 

Rope 

Rain Cot 

Ice Hammer 

Sleeping Bag 

 

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